This file set is an almost drop in replacemnt for the semi automatic pusher to convert the Nerf MA40 into a full auto firing blaster.
Note that the hardware is all flycore except the pusher bolt, which is designed for an M2 instead of an M3 to give the pusher the maximum possible throw.
(3) M2.6x10mm toy screws (if not using a pusher return sensor, only 1)
(2) M2.6x12mm toy screws
(1) M2x6mm socket head bolt
(1) M2 nut
(1) N20 Motor (1000 rpm or below, higher rpm motors have insuffiucent torque and burn out)
(1) Cherry DB2 style switch (for pusher return sensor)
(1) Omron/Tezuo style microswitch
Its set up just like a flycore blaster so just wire the same way.
I've included the PDF assembly guide of a QUIK so decide which wiring option you prefer and do that.
I found these orientations work best, a little support is needed on the pusher and motor mount.
I also suggest printing the post in the center of the disk solid for extra support on the D-slot.
There are some tabs and walls needed to be cut for the pusher and cables to fit.
In the photos you will notice the pivot post is removed but that is not necessary. If you leave the post the entire mod can be undone and retuned to semi auto if you ever decide to go back.
Create a little channel for the wires to pass under the barrel near the front of the flywheels and remove the tiny spoke under the switch plate.
Remove the walls shown, the rough cut is just clearance for the wires.
Remove the support walls shown, the top most one should be cut flush to the horizontal wall to allow for pusher clearance.
The trigger switch sits on the switch plate and is friction fit around the post and X support under it.
Slot the N20 motor into the top of the motor mount and attach the switch plate in the back with a toy screw, this will also lock the motor in place.
screw the M2 bolt into the top flat side of the disk, and push the D slot hole onto the motor. This is a friction fit.
The pusher mechanism is friction fit between the post and wall of the mag release. Make sure that the corner of the motor mount (red arrow) is not sitting on top of the mag release but is pushed down past it.
To insert the actual pusher first move the screw to the front of the pusher mechanism and align the pusher slot.
Then place the bolt into the pusher slot.
finally snap the long tab of the pusher into the old pusher channel.
If the pusher is sticking add lubriucant to the top of the pusher disk, the right side of the pusher arm, and inside both slots on the top of the pusher.
Drilling vent holes along the barrel should improve performance, which normally is hindered by the long barrel.
The OFP cage available for the MA40 seems to be off center to the right of the blaster (too low on the posts) so I've had to add about 2mm worth of M2 washers.
Before closing up the blaster make sure to add in the black cosmetic pieces at the stock and cheek rest as the wires dent to get in the way so youll have to move them around screw posts.
The wires to the pusher should be packed above the old pusher channel, and make sure the pusher has clearance for when it is in the furthest back position.
The pusher motor should turn into the shell on the return to prevent the pusher from catching on the internal ribs, i.e. clockwise looking from the top.
If the pusher works fine while the blaster is open but seems to work slowly or wont work when closed, try shaving a little material from this area of the pusher.
And thats all, have fun using your slightly more game accurate MA40 (in game the RPM is 720 so decide on your N20 motor accordingly).
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.
