Based on Marlin 1.1.0 - RCBugFix (22 feb 2017)
The stock Leapfrog Creatr use a proprietary board which it completly screwed and of course, replacing it would cost 150€ alone and not even hackable (soldered stepper driver, not much expansion port and no community around it).
Complete part list are:
- RAMPS 1.4 (modified for 24v).
- Reprapdiscount LCD 20x04.
- Arduino Mega.
- 4x TMC2100 stepper driver (X, Y and Dual E).
- 1x DRV8825 stepper driver (Solely for the Z axis: torque freak).
- BLTouch sensor (Z probe and auto-leveling).
All the rest of the hardware are for the moment stock from the factory to ensure a smooth and easy transition from stock to custom.
THE RAMPS MUST BE MODIFIED TO SUPPORT 24V
I can't stress that enough. The Leapfrog Creatr use a 24V power supply which will fry or burst into flame immediatly if the proper modification on the RAMPS is not made. Search on internet but a rough explaination is:
- Check if all capacitors are rated above 24V (mine are 35V), if not, you're screwed.
- Check if the polyfuse are rated above 24V, if not, remove them and put an adequate fuse or bridge the pins.
- Remove the D1 diode to cut the 24V to flow into the Arduino.
- Supply an external power to the Arduino (for exemple 5V from the USB).
I can't be held responsible for any damage or injure that can happen resulting on modifying your printer.
The wiring is pretty straight forward like every RAMPS on the planet. Might add a picture later.
The stock RC8 BugFix does support the BLTouch OoB (using #define BL_TOUCH) but it's somehow broken with my sensor (knockoff: Deployed is triggered). So it has been manually added like every regular sensor (Servo position {10,90}) etc.
The sensor is connected to Servo pin 0 (closest to the reset button).
| Commands | Code |
|---|---|
| Pin down (deployed) | M280 P0 S10 |
| Pin up (parking) | M280 P0 S90 |
| Self test | M280 P0 S120 |
| Reset alarm | M280 P0 S160 |
The firmware is set to do a bilinear leveling with a grid of 5 x 5 (with subdivision 3x3) and safe homing in the center of the bed.
DON'T G28 (Home) AFTER G29 (Autoleveling). It will just remove the correction from the printer
If your sensor is a perfect replica of the ANTlabs sensor, you might change to the builtin define and revert the behavior of the endstop.
The scripts below are pulled from my Simplify3D profil. Just adapt to your liking or software (temperature hooker differ in Cura for exemple).
Starting script:
M104 S[extruder0_temperature] ;Set hotend to temp
M280 P0 S160 ;Reset BLTouch sensor
M280 P0 S120 ;BLTouch selftest mode
G4 S5 ;Wait 5 seconds
M280 P0 S160 ;Reset BLTouch sensor
G28 ;Homing
G29 ;Autoleveling
G1 F2400 X0 Y0 ;Move to Origin XY
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] ;Wait hotend to reach temp
G90 ;Absolute positioning
M83 ;Extruder in relative mode
G1 F300 Z0.2 ;Nozzle to starting position
G1 F300 E5 ;Priming the hotend
G1 F300 E15 X20 ;Purge the hotend
M82 ;Extruder in absolute mode
G92 E0 ;Reset extruder position
Ending script:
G91 ;Relative
G1 F600 Z50 ;Move Z down by 50mm
G90 ;Absolute
G1 F1200 Y250 X100 ;Move head toward center backend
G92 E0 ;Reset extruder position
G1 E-5 ;Reduce filament pressure
M106 S0 ;Turn off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn off extruder
M140 S0 ;Turn off heated bed
G92 E0 ;Reset extruder position
M84 ;Turn steppers off
- Replace the Z axis DRV8825 to DM422 stepper driver.
- Replace the LCD 2004 for a 12864 full graphics.
- Dual E3D V6 or Chimera/Cyclops.
- Bowden conversion.
- Full enclosure with HEPA filtering.
THERMAL_PROTECTION_*_PERIODhave been increased to40.WATCH_*_TEMP_PERIODhave been increased to60.BED PIDfor the hotend is customized (runM303 E0 S200 C8to get yours lines 326-328 in configuration.h).