This was my first time modding a GameBoy Advance, and it took me around 3 hours to complete. I followed community guides, took my time with the delicate parts, and learned a lot in the process. The final result is a clean, modern build with an IPS screen and a striking all-black aesthetic—something that looks and feels premium, but still respects the original design.
- eXtremeRate IPS Ready Shell (Black-Black)
- 32-pin GBA Motherboard
- 2.9" Original-Size IPS High Brightness LCD (Black version)
- Comes with both 32-pin and 40-pin ribbon cables
- I used the 32-pin for compatibility
- HD Screen Protection Film (Optional)
- Omitted in my build; the glass screen is already scratch-resistant
- Tri-wing screwdriver (be cautious—see below)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Isopropyl alcohol (for cleaning only the motherboard)
- Microfiber cloth
- Cotton swabs
- Plastic pry tool
- Tweezers (optional)
Understanding the screws before starting is crucial:
- Motherboard: 2 or 3 Phillips screws (depends on your board)
- Metal Cartridge Tray: 4 Phillips screws
- Back Shell: 6 Tri-wing screws
- Battery Cover: 1 Phillips screw
The screws provided in the replacement shell aren’t as durable as the originals. Use gentle, precise turns—over-tightening can strip or bend them.
One of the tri-wing screws that came with the shell bent while inside the groove. The grooves aren’t pre-threaded, which makes closing the shell a repetitive screw-unscrew process. It took me three tries and a lot of patience to extract the damaged screw. Thankfully, I had a spare tri-wing screw from another device that fit perfectly.
Lesson learned: Keep extras on hand, and don’t force shell closure. A poorly sealed shell allows dust inside and looks unfinished.
Before assembly, I cleaned my 32-pin motherboard with isopropyl alcohol. Areas I cleaned:
- Button contact pads (gold/brass)
- Battery contact points
- Power switch
- Cartridge slot
- Speaker contacts
Do not clean the buttons or screen with alcohol—it can damage rubber parts and surface coatings.
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Disassemble the Original GBA
- Remove screws and gently separate the shell
- Extract the board, screen, and buttons
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Install IPS Screen
- Fit screen into new shell using adhesive bracket
- Connect the correct ribbon cable for your motherboard type
- Align the screen carefully
-
Reassemble with the New Shell
- Add buttons, membranes, and motherboard
- Install cartridge tray (4x Phillips screws)
- Connect everything, screw it shut
-
Test Your Mod
- Power on and verify screen, buttons, sound, and game reading
Rechargeable Li-ion Battery (1800mAh):
- USB-C charging
- 5–8 hours playtime
- ~$30–$60 depending on seller
- I skipped this for my first build to stay under a $150 budget
All components were ordered from AliExpress, including:
- IPS screen
- Shell
- Tools & accessories
Total cost: ~$140 (with shipping & discounts)
Shipping time: ~15 days
Packaging: Secure with bubble wrap
Modding this GBA was one of the most rewarding DIY projects I’ve tackled. The IPS screen looks incredible, and the blacked-out build feels modern while keeping its nostalgic charm. This guide is meant to show that even first-timers can create something amazing with patience, the right tools, and a good walkthrough.
A:
- Check Connections: Ensure all ribbon cables are seated correctly.
- Power Supply: Confirm the batteries are fresh or power is properly delivered.
- Polarity & Orientation: Double-check connectors for reversal.
- Kit Instructions: Some kits require specific jumper settings.
- Screen Testing: Use a known-good system to test the display.
A:
Yes. Most modern IPS kits include both 32-pin and 40-pin ribbon cables. Just make sure your motherboard type matches the ribbon, and refer to your kit’s wiring diagram.
A:
Not usually. Many IPS kits today are solderless. However, some optional features like brightness control may require light soldering. Choose kits labeled “plug-and-play” for ease.
A:
The EZ Flash Omega Definitive Edition stands out for its UI, reliable save system, and ease of use. While I haven’t personally used it yet, it’s top of the list for future upgrades. Other flash carts may have clunky interfaces or unreliable save handling.
- Improve audio clarity and volume
- Some are plug-and-play or require minor soldering
- Use a USB-C rechargeable Li-ion battery (1800mAh)
- Expect 5–8 hours of gameplay per charge
- Load homebrew, ROM hacks, and game libraries
- Use flash carts with save states, fast boot, and multi-game loaders